I have a 100B that I cannot get the clutch to release. I have had it off the bike 5 times, blue printed it, set the clutch arm to 3/32 free play and the clutch still drags. If I add enough shims to no free play in clutch arm it will drag some what but not enough to have a free running motor. The shim behind the drive gear is OK and the shim between the gears is OK. The clutch cable is free. Just doesn't make sense.
Any ideas?
clutch won't dissengage
Re: clutch won't dissengage
How about the clutch pinion bushing #67 on the diagram at: http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/SearchRes ... p?Cat=2049
If that bushing is worn on the end (too short) the clutch will drag even if the plates are released.
If that bushing is worn on the end (too short) the clutch will drag even if the plates are released.
Bill Chapman, Monument, CO
Raced and Modified Hodakas in Statesville NC back in the day.
Raced and Modified Hodakas in Statesville NC back in the day.
Re: clutch won't dissengage
Two thoughts;
A new bushing can be damaged if the clutch nut is over torqued. Manual calls for 250 in lbs.
Also, you stated that the shim behind the drive gear is OK. Are you positive that you have the extra thick "pressed" clutch thrust washer there. One edge will be sharp while the other side is rounded off. The rounded side must go against the crank bearing (rounded edge towards the inner motor).
Dale
A new bushing can be damaged if the clutch nut is over torqued. Manual calls for 250 in lbs.
Also, you stated that the shim behind the drive gear is OK. Are you positive that you have the extra thick "pressed" clutch thrust washer there. One edge will be sharp while the other side is rounded off. The rounded side must go against the crank bearing (rounded edge towards the inner motor).
Dale
Dale
Re: clutch won't dissengage
I got it fixed. Thanks for the remarks. Had wrong shim in.
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