Center Cases, to paint or not to paint?

[pungo]

All,

Trying to decide if I should paint center cases or leave raw alum after bead blasting.

Would like to paint but whats a good product that can handle fuel dripping on it now an then?
Could put a clear coat on after cleaning but same issue with fuel.
Raw Alum will eventually oxidize.

Looking for others experience here. Not looking for show bike that never sees fuel, want all my bikes to have ability to run and be ridden, even if they are not.

So far I have heard of Alum Blast from Eastwood but unknown about fuel protection.

Thinking an epoxy paint may resist fuel the best.

I have a can of Pauls Pewter paint but have not tried that yet. Really only want to paint this once and have it last, yeah right!

[Dale]

I would stay with the bead blasted look for the center cases myself. Especially for a rider.

There are paints that do hold up pretty well. The Fast Black PJ1 that Paul sells is awesome, but of course is black. If you can find this paint in grey, I am sure that it would be great. As for the Pewter paint, it is beautiful, but I would not use it for the center cases unless you plan to top coat it. My experience with it showed it to be damaged by gas leaks. I would only use it for the covers.
Dale

[pungo]

Looks like the PJ1 is only available in various blacks
http://pj1.com/c-1057647-performance-au ... tings.html

There is an epoxy clear coat, may try that if another fuel proof paint cannot be found.

I recall a friend that use to do RC Airplanes and he uses a fuel proof paint for his projects.
Perhaps a trip the local hobby store is in order. Needs to be fuel proof and hand reasonable temps, not cly/head temps.

[olddogs]

High end automotive clear coat for spot repairs would be your best bet against fuel lifting. It is a 2 part epoxy type. You spill gas on the side of your car all the time without the paint coming off right,,, But the design of the Hodaka center cases makes a nice pool area under the carb. Gas sitting and soaking even the highest quality paint for months will destroy most anything. Plus the oil mixed in the gas makes it evaporate even slower.

I love the look of the ball burnished cases, very natural, but I don't know how long before they too oxidize and start to age..

[pungo]

Just found this from RC search for fuel proof paint, perhaps an option, wonder if anyone has tried this.

http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/pain ... 0tip1.html

[Zyx]

Lustrekote is said to be model fuel proof. Models use a blend of methanol and nitromethane, and frankly no paint likes to have such chemicals in prolonged contact. Models are wiped down after every flight, and the paint is good enough for that. I never had issues with model airplane paints, but of course, I used them on model airplanes. My guess is they are lacquer based but I don't know any longer. Been too many years.

I suppose you could try it, but I would first find out what kind of paint it is, not whether it is supposed to be fuel proof. The only automotive paint that is known to be seriously chemical resistant in the long run is epoxy based paint. Two part automotive polyurethane paints are also quite resistant once cured. Nothing in a rattle can is going to stand up to prolonged exposure to gasoline. Dupli-color and VHT are just not good enough anymore. Since they have had to change the chemical composition to reduce air pollution, their paints no longer perform.

Hodaka cases were painted, were they not? If they were, it would have been with 2K automotive enamel. These catalysed paints require a compressor and spray gun. If you have such tools, choose the paint you like and shoot the cases. If you don't have paint equipment, I would leave the cases bare.

[viclioce]

I did mine with high heat engine paint purchased at the local auto parts store. Since the motor was already painted, I cleaned it up and repainted it. I used a little masking tape on the name letters just to have them stand out. It's been a year and it's holding up well! ; D Victor

[dcooke007]

pungo,
Below is a link to Eastwood's 2k matte clear engine paint. It is a 2 part paint that is combined in one spray can. I have considered using it but have another process I currently use. Eastwood's product looks promising and it is on sale right now. It is available in gloss clear and other colors also. The 2k product should be very resistant to fuel.

Also, the bead blasted surface is not good for paint retention. Usually a grit blasted surface retains paint better. With that said, I have bead blasted aluminum parts and then used an aluminum conditioner prior to coating with good results. I prefer to bead blast and then chemically etch the aluminum for a smoother surface. Eastwood also carries an aluminum prep solution.

If you decide to use the Eastwood product a report would be appreciated.

http://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-hi ... clear.html

I also have a product I can clear coat the cases with that is impervious to fuel. It is Gunkote by KG Industries. The initial cost to do this yourself with this product is more than most people want to spend for an occasional job. Let me know if you are interested.
Danny

[pungo]

All,

Well I ordered three cans of lustrekote paint from Tower Hobbies, white primer, sliver and clear. It was cheap enough at $8 a can and free shipping.
But I think it is lacquer based which may not be good. May crack under heat changes.
I will have it on hand and may try it on some spare engine cases to see how it does.

The Eastwood 2K looks interesting, on shot deal, you mix a can you have to use the can, doubt it would have any shelf life. But thats OK, expensive but not in to in the grand scheme of things for a nice finished motor.

I hear you on the usage of chemical today vs days of past. We evolve but have lesser effective products, can no longer even get good cold medicines anymore lol.

I generally bead blast parts and powder-coat everything. I have a rear hub break arm that got bent in half, dont ask how, and the powder-coat did not pop. Will post a pic of that later.

I use to by a paint called Ferothane, it was an epoxy based paint that took a week to totally cure, dry to touch in several hours. I was super durable and nothing touched it, even acetone. Last I knew Rustolum bought the company and the product went bye bye.

Will keep compiling options and perhaps do some experiments, although only true test is the rider bike.

thx

[pungo]

PJ1 Update.

I did find a reference for a PJ1 silver case paint, but its out of stock. Knowing internet data can be dated I went called PJ1 to check availability.
No answer after several tries so I sent them a email from their Contact Us page. Heard back this AM, seems they discontinued that line 7 yrs ago
Only current products are the Fast Black.
I asked Alex Snoop what he used on my OSSA motor rebuild, he uses a guy in Mass, contact info pending.

[Modracer70]

I use VHT high temp clear coat after blasting, it has to be cure with heat, old toaster oven works great. Hold up great once cured.
Dave