Decal application

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RichardMott
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Decal application

Post by RichardMott »

I am having trouble getting my 250 SL battery decal to separate from the clear plastic. It wants to stay on the plastic and not stay with the top paper. I don't want damage it. :o It is the white one, not he red one shown on the SH website.

Any hints. :roll:

https://www.strictlyhodaka.com/product-p/709041dcl.htm
Rick Mott

In order to be old and wise, you must survive young and stupid!
Hydraulic Jack
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Re: Decal application

Post by Hydraulic Jack »

From the photo, I am assuming that the numbers are right side up and right side out when loooking through the plastic cover as opposed to trying to see the decal through the paper backing. If so, then the decal and the plastic separate from the paper when ready to apply. The decal stays with the plastic. Apply both decal and plastic cover to the air box. Press to stick the decal, peel the plastic to remove it leaving the decal behind.
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Bill2001
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Re: Decal application

Post by Bill2001 »

Like Jack says, the top clear plastic is the actual carrier for the decal, and the paper backing preserves the adhesive on the decal. Peel the paper apply the decal (rub rub rub to apply) and carefully peel away the carrier. On critical positioning jobs you can even spray a light spritz of window cleaner onto the part, sliding the decal into position and then squeegying the liquid out from under the decal. You can even spray clear coat over the applied and dried decal to protect it.
Keepin' the Shiny Side up
on a '72 Wombat 94

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RichardMott
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Re: Decal application

Post by RichardMott »

Guys,

There is no adhesive on the clear plastic back side. What sticks it to the bike?
Paper side out
Paper side out
Rick Mott

In order to be old and wise, you must survive young and stupid!
thrownchain
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Re: Decal application

Post by thrownchain »

If that is a vinyl repop, it's a 3 layer "decal". These are not soak and apply like the old ones. There is the clear rear one, which comes off first, the "glue" will be on the sheet with the numbers on it, and the top paper layer is to protect the vinyl sheet. Peel off the back sheet, apply the decal, then peel off the top sheet. My opinion. But that's the way the ones work that I have had repop'd. See if you can seperate a corner, you won't have to go far to see the ply structure.
Bill2001
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Re: Decal application

Post by Bill2001 »

Richard--

The adhesive is on the decal itself and not on the clear plastic carrier, though the carrier may be slightly sticky to hold in place while the decal is rubbed down. The paper backing is slick.and waxy so.it releases easily from the decal + carrier.
Keepin' the Shiny Side up
on a '72 Wombat 94

--Bill
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RichardMott
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Re: Decal application

Post by RichardMott »

Bill,

I am sure you are right. I have applied many decal like this. I think this decal is old stock and the plastic is not releasing properly from the paper and decal. To make things worse, the individual numbers and the Hodaka logo in the decal are not connected and will not release together.
It is not 3 layer, but even is it was, I cannot get the thing to separate properly.
I got this decal free, so I cannot really complain. The battery cover looks naked. :oops:

I have a plan to save it though. :roll:
four.jpg
Rick Mott

In order to be old and wise, you must survive young and stupid!
Hydraulic Jack
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Re: Decal application

Post by Hydraulic Jack »

Sure hate to see you suffer with that old decal. I'll give you ten bucks for the decal and the bike, and then the decal problem will be off your shoulders. ;)

Post a photo of the flip side of the decal. Not sure from the description which side is "plastic" and which is paper. The matrix that holds the decal is the 3M label side in the first photo, and it is probably some form of synthetic fabric or paper fiber product. It may have a very thin plastic skin or may be entirelynplasticized. The backing, which should,be the side not shown in the first photo is probably heavier paper with a plastic skin that the decal isn't supposed to stick to, but the matrix will stick to. They should just barely stick together, and should separate. When the upper matrix is lifted from the paper backing the numbers should stay with the upper matrix. That's how I would understand this thing to work, and there should be three layers: upper matrix, vinyl decal, paper backing.

You probably already know all this, but since it doesn't seem to want to work right, try warming the decal before trying to separate the thing. Somewhere around 100 to 120 degrees. See if that helps things function.
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RichardMott
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Re: Decal application

Post by RichardMott »

Arizona er, I mean Jack,

The plastic is on the opposite side of the photo and there is only the plastic, the decal and the paper on top which the decal should stay with when it lifted from the plastic. I tried warming it already. No luck.
Rick Mott

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Bill2001
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Re: Decal application

Post by Bill2001 »

For under $20 you can get a new side cover decal from SH. For the money I wouldn't bother with the old decal. If the carrier/backing is bad, then the adhesive on the backside of the decal is questionable.

And you could turn around and sell the.old decal on Fleabay as a gen-you-whine Hodakie restoration part. ;)
Keepin' the Shiny Side up
on a '72 Wombat 94

--Bill
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Re: Decal application

Post by viclioce »

Rich. You may be able to add a bit of rubber cement or spray adhesive to the decal with a fine point brush. Then apply it and tape it in place to dry and remove the backing in the morning. Just a thought.... :mrgreen: Victor

1978 175SL
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1973 “Wombat Combat”
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RichardMott
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Re: Decal application

Post by RichardMott »

Hooray, done.

Even the new one Paul sent had issues. My neighbor made a new one. Free for me, so no harm done.
decal done.jpg
Rick Mott

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