Here are the resistance values as stated in the Hodaka Workshop Manual. Ignition coil primary winding (hook up ohm meter to the black and blue wire coming out of the ignition coil) 1.9 ohms +or- 10%. Ignition coil secondary winding (hook up ohm meter to the blue wire and the spark plug lead) 4500-57...

I've got a question as it relates to the designation of the Ace models, as far as when the designation goes from being an Ace 100B to an Ace 100B+ . Some literature list the Ace 100B+ as starting at frame # A-67613. But other records (the Hodaka book by Ken Smith) indicate that the B+ started with f...

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You can have the whole assembly as pictured, or I can remove the pump and send you just the pump. Let me know.

Here are a couple of photos of the one I have.

If you are still looking I have one. It was in a salvaged bike so I'm not sure of it's condition, but if you need it, it's your's for the postage.

Just as an aside to this post, Bullfrog (Capt. Eddie) did an excellent article in the "Resonator Revisited" (Volume 1, issue 7, pages 11-14) on a simplified "Enduro" wiring system for the Hodaka's with a three coil system. While not street legal, it has some very good information...

But, the main question is still out there. Is 8 and 11 volts over of what should be being measured from the system? From what limited knowledge on the matter I have, I know the system will produce more volts than 6 (otherwise you could never charge the battery), but just how much more I don't know.

The lighting coils will put out more voltage than the rated value of 6 volts ( it has to in order to charge a 6 volt battery). I'm not sure what the actual voltage should be, but I don't think your values are far off (hopefully someone that works on electrics can verify this). I looked through the W...

Ed, minor error in your post. The part number for the mainshafts on the Wombat model 94&94a; the Dirt Squirt model 92C&96 and the Combat Wombat model 95 should be 944500 . The Ace 100 models and the various model 93 Super Rats had mainshaft # 924500 . Victor, the spec sheet at hodaka-parts.c...

Years ago, under the old group chat page, there was a "Files" section. In the files was a really great article on Tank Derusting using Electrolysis. The article was written by Greg Floren and included photos of his set-up. Any chance that article is still around somewhere? Any possibility ...

I have used electrolysis before and it worked very well. I did it where you just fill the tank with solution, not where you place the entire tank into solution. Here are the instructions I received for someone, don't remember who: I'd read about a few of you folks using electrolysis to clean your ta...

Unless the tank is leaking out of a seam or pin holes, I would stay away from linings. Some people have had luck with them, but those that haven't have had all kinds of nightmares with trying to fix it afterward. If all you had was some rust inside and you have taken care of it, and it all appears s...

Both your frame number and engine number are correct for a model 96 Dirt Squirt (chrome tank model, there was also a later version the model 01 Dirt Squirt with a painted tank).

Sorry I can't help, I don't read I'm guessing German. Why don't you post a photo of the bike you are trying to fit this tachometer to as it doesn't sound like one we are familiar with. Also, if all you need the tachometer for is to keep track of how high you are revving your engine, etc. have you co...

Looks like it's pretty much there. Should be a fun project. As for parts, the air cleaners from the early Wombats (model 94 & 94A) were pretty much the same (aside from colors, air cleaner joint booty). Many of the other bikes (both Road Toads, later Dirt Squirt and 03 Wombat) also had air clean...

Are you talking about an aftermarket tachometer, as the Wombat didn't come with a tach? Did the tachometer come with any instructions? Is one wire is supposed to go to the ignition wire (hot side) and the other supposed to go to ground? There are a few different types, so to give you a correct answe...

I have seen the primary gears on the old Ace 100's break from time to time, but I hadn't seen one of a Dirt Squirt break. I had been told the primary gears on the Ace and the Dirt Squirt were cast metal, while the primary gears on a Super Rat were forged. Never saw a primary gear fail on a Super Rat...

I need barns like that around me! Great find.

Don't know if you are trying to get back to original configuration or just to make it legal to ride. If just to get legal, here is a very simplified wiring diagram from Dirt Bike Magazine from back in the 70's.

If for original configuration, go with the diagram Victor sent.

Have you tried to start it? Even with low compression you can often start one (might have to push start it). Then, once it has run for a while (giving the rings time to seat in), try a compression test (on cold engine).

Have you checked with Terry at hodaka-parts.com or Bruce at hodakapartsidaho.com ? I have seen reprints of the owners manual listed on hodaka-parts.com

Here is a photo of the two types of engine cases, the small deck and the large deck. Other than the size of the deck, the rest of the cases were the same. As mentioned, the change was made so the same engine blanks could be used for either a 100 or a 125, depending on how the finish machining was do...

The engine deck size change was the result of Hodaka changing it so the cases could also be used on the 125's they were developing (while cases from a 100 couldn't be used for a 125 as is; the case blanks before machining were the same and depending on how machined were used for the 100's or 125's)....

All of the early (iron cylinder) 100 engines were pretty much the same. There were differences from the Ace 100 models to the Super Rat models, but most parts could be interchanged throughout the early engines. The transmission for the Ace 100's and the model 93, 93A and 93B Super Rat's were the sam...

The cylinders on the 01 Dirt Squirt and 02 Road Toad were the same, both using part # 992505A. They were unpainted aluminum. The 99 Dirt Squirt used the same cylinder, except it was painted black, with a part # of 992505 (only difference is with the unpainted ones the part number ended in "A&qu...