I'm curious to know the answers to Mike's questions as well. I remember a post on the "old" chat board where someone had indeed relocated the condenser for easy access.

Hi Champ,

Yes, you do tap it out from the bottom, so that it exits from inside the carb body. Arizona Shorty makes a good point about the orientation, but in the case of the VM20 there is indeed an orientation pin, so you really can't go wrong when reinstalling.

--Russell

Hi Champ, I'm sure Laurie can explain it better, but a wooden dowel works great for gently tapping out the needle jet. Then, to reinstall it, I use one of those cheap "retriever/grabber" tools to hold it and reach into the carb body. http://www.homedepot.com/p/GrabEasy-Grabber-and-Retrieve...

Thanks, Paul -- it'll certainly be interesting to see if this proves to be a viable option.

Ooops, here's that link: http://dmv.vermont.gov/sites/dmv/files/ ... le_App.pdf

Thanks, Paul. Below is the Registration Form, which has a block (under 4A) that specifies "VT Driver License No." I'm assuming, then, that an out-of-state Driver's License Number will suffice?

How did you handle the requirement that you furnish a Vermont driver's license number?

Ooops, here's the link to the schematic mentioned in the post above: http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/SearchRes ... p?Cat=2054

Congratulations on your "new" Hodaka! I'm not sure the steering fork bracket for a '69 ACE has the necessary drill holes to accomodate a "B+" style (raised) front fender, but others on the board will chime in, I'm sure. At minimum you would a fender stay/bracket (part #33 in the ...

Ok, so that brings up one of my dilemmas: I have a beautiful tank that some %^^## lined via a radiator shop. They did a poor job of it, about half the tank is bare, the other half is red (not sure what radiator shops use for coating). Whatever they use, it seems gas-soluble, as the fuel gets dyed r...

Just did a "Hodaka" search in Craigslist-Roanoke under both the Motorcycles "For Sale" and "Parts & Accessories" sections. Nothing popped up.

Bill, I don't think that's Ed. Take a close look at the "handle." 'Fraid I see more possible identity confusion coming down the pike, which is unfortunate.

Here's a link that will help you locate stations that have non-ethanol gas: http://pure-gas.org/.

Gas stations located near boating ramps commonly have non-ethanol pumps, for obvious reasons.

Beautiful!

The full capacity is 1-1/4 pints. However, if you're draining existing oil, the "board" consensus is that it's generally best to add just 1 pint, since a bit of the old oil invariably remains.

The seller just listed it on eBay with a "Buy It Now" price of $7000. Funny, from what I gather, his Craigslist ad kept getting hit with "flagged for removal" notices. I hope no one gets taken -- unlike with Craigslist, on eBay I don't think there's any provision for throwing up ...

Evaporust is a great product for de-rusting if the rust isn't too bad. It's available at Tractor Supply and O'Reillys, probably other places as well. If you do decide to seal the tank, I've had great success with a product called Red Kote. It's fairly simple to use and has a great reputation -- also...

Link here, you'll need to scroll down: http://vft.org/vftforsale2.html

I believe the same bike is also listed on the big auction site.

Forrest, Thanks so much for taking the time and trouble to shoot and post photos -- very clear and very helpful. I'm not sure that exact configuration will work for my bike, but you've given me an idea I think will work, using a U-bolt like yours plus the Hodaka OEM U-bolt that attaches to the frame...

That would be great, Forrest. I really do appreciate it.

Forrest, Do you happen to have a photo of your bike that shows how you configured the "U" bracket support?

--Russell

I like that idea much better. Putting out feelers right now for a spare "cone" bracket from a discarded 93 Rat pipe. Might not be an exact fit, but just eyeballing it, looks like it would work. Thanks Clarence, Thanks Ed.

Thanks, Ed. Looks like a bit of welding in my future.

Looking for suggestions about the best way to secure the pipe to the frame. It's bolted on at the very rear, but still has lots of wiggle. Thanks in advance for ideas.

Danny Cooke posted some great "condenser wiring" pics in an earlier thread that might be helpful. You can view them here: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=264