The Resonator Revisited is the official publication of the Hodaka Club. It comes out 4 times a year and is full of tips and techniques, along with stories about Hodaka's.
Membership is $25 a year, at hodakaclub.org

I've never noticed any numbers stamped on mine, but then I never really looked. I have to give all of mine a look to see if any are stamped.

Albert,
My Combat is VIN # D-16053, it was manufactured in March 1973.

Once your rebuild is complete, this story would make a great article for the Resonator Revisited.

Your best bet for finding a month/year for your bike is to list your VIN number, you don't have to list the whole number, just the first few characters, such as A-656##. Then ask if anyone has a close VIN number and see when theirs was produced. They were made in batches over a month or two, and the...

A couple of questions.
Was the bike running well before and this just recently occurred? (Or has the bike always not run right)
Is the VIN on your Wombat before C-01701 or after?

As a caution, I wouldn't run it at all if it was leaking fuel.

And here is another article.

Here's an article from back in the day. Hope it helps.

94A also went to a 3.50x18 rear tire, where the 94 came with a 3.00x18. Not sure, but that might have been when they changed from 423 chain to 428?
Different aluminum cylinders for the 125:
1: Combat Wombat
2: Super Combat
3: 03 Wombat.

Victor,
Go to "Resonator Revisited" V2-42, page 19 and there is an article about the different forks and the internal parts. It gives lengths and assembly diagrams, etc. That might help you sort out your forks.

I don't know if it will help or not, but the 76-77 Honda CR125 had a very similar CDI (many people have used them on Hodakas). You might see if you can find the specs on those and see if it is close to your readings. Just a thought until someone who knows responds.

We just had a couple of cold fronts go through the last few days here in Florida. I had to break out a sweatshirt. It's been down into the 50's at night and only into the high 60's or low 70's during the day. If it gets much colder the iguanas are going to start falling out of the trees!

Welcome. You have come to the right place to talk Hodaka. I don't know if you are on Facebook, but there are a couple of Hodaka groups there that also have good information. Looks like your Road Toad is pretty much all there so that's a good start. You are right, not many Hodaka's made it to Europe....

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all out there in Hodaka land. Hopefully you find whatever you need to complete your Hodaka projects under the tree.

First painted tank would have been the model 97 Super Combat.

The dimensions look very much like the early racing pipe that Hodaka sold (before the Super Rat came out). That pipe was pretty much the same as what later came on the Super Rat. Heat shield on this one looks different from that one and the Hodaka sold version had a slip fit mount at the cylinder. G...

Off topic of color, but did you notice that the bike still has the elusive "Tire Pump" under the tank? That alone is a rare find.

If you can post a photo of what it looks like.

I was thinking the same thing until I pulled it apart. This does make sense as there was only one wire going to it. An on-off switch would have required two wires, but just a ground wire to complete the circuit only requires one.

Here are the photos of the shifter case and the neutral switch. Photos 1 -4 show the switch in the case and the orientation of the parts. Note that the bent end of the switch contact faces up as you look into the case and the bent tang is away from the ratchet gear. Photo 5 shows the ratchet gear wi...

I have an old crusty 03 Wombat shifter case. Let me dig it out, pull the back cover off and snap a couple of photos. It might take a couple of days to get to it if that's okay.

Depends on what type of racing...MX, cross country, enduro?

Just remember, some bad condensers can work until they heat up, then quit working properly. Once cooled down it will work again. Kind of like chasing a gremlin (not the AMC one).

While apart, make sure all wires are connected properly and none are shorted out. Check connections between all wires to ensure they are tight and not corroded (including ground wires and connections). Make sure the small insulators on the points are not broken (after 50 years they could break down ...

Here are the resistance values as stated in the Hodaka Workshop Manual. Ignition coil primary winding (hook up ohm meter to the black and blue wire coming out of the ignition coil) 1.9 ohms +or- 10%. Ignition coil secondary winding (hook up ohm meter to the blue wire and the spark plug lead) 4500-57...