Number 1 in the first response states the piston will work if the 94 also has a reed valve. As it turned out the 94 cylinder had a GEM reed already installed. The owner had been lead to believe it was SC cylinder because of the reed valve.

Nope. Wombat, Combat Wombat, Super Combat and late red tank 03 Wombat cylinders will all work on 94 95 or 97 bottom ends with piston and reed valve modifications. The 03 bottom end is its own animal due to crank changes. Talented guys like Rich Gagnon could probably make a John Deere cylinder work, ...

Recent ebay sales of 97 cylinders between 400 and 800 dollars depending on attached parts. They quit making them 45 years ago. There are a finite number left.

model 97 cylinders are rare and bringing top dollar right now. 97 pistons and rings in all sizes are plentiful.

You can sometimes visually identify an 03 cylinder if its rubber noise damper blocks are still in the fins. If not you have to measure the exhaust port height to the deck. I believe the 03 is 2 mm lower than the 97. Cant recall the exact measurements.

The 03 cylinder and the 97SC cylinder are almost exact copies. I have raced with both and the power difference is hard to detect. The 03 piston and the 97SC piston are not the same. The wrist pin location is different between the two. The 97 and 03 heads swap, the 97 having a smaller squish area. 95...

1. No. Model 97 has reed valve holes in skirt. The 94 would also need a reed valve. 2.. Some. A Model 95 will work if you use a 95 exhaust manifold. Same with 01 02 03 pipes. Use matching manifolds. 3. No. The 97s used a rubber mounted spigot carb. 94 is a flange mount. Adapters would need to be loc...

You may be right. He may be looking for something different. Since the crank is centered by the torque of the clutch nut pulling the crank against the right side bearing, which is locked in place by the snap ring, the correct side play of the rod is the only variable in the cranks width. If you have...

.006 to .008. Specs can be found in the Hodakaparts.com library section.

If you are going for the full look of the original brackets the nuts were the flat square weld on type. They are unplated and weld on better. I bought a box of them years ago and they have come in handy to have around.

Opps. The shallow hump measures about 3 1/4 inches across right in the middle of the bracket.

Ok. Had a loose one on the shelf. Made from 3/4 wide flat stock. They are 6 3/4 from the inside to inside of the number plate. The down legs are 2 inches. The hump where it sits on the fender is not as exaggerated as the picture looks. If you weld the nuts on it will rust where the plating is burned...

Since they are not painted and dont rust my guess is cad plated flat steel was used. They are easy to reproduce from store bought flat stock. I can measure one in the morning.

I can remember a Dirt Bike magazine test of the Super Rat that recommended tossing the stock motor mount bolts and changing to an American 3/8 bolt to ease vibration. We all ran out and changed to the "stronger" bolts. Never noticed a difference.

Somebody at Hodaka thought the early 125 Wombats had too much vibration, so they put a head stay on the second batch of 125s. They called this second batch the 94a The brackets are available and can be retrofitted. This model is easy to spot because they came with blinkers

If you ride tight woods the money may be better spent on a reed valve setup. Any boost in performance with just the head swap would be minimal. Also if you are doing a lot of brake sliding in tight woods, a higher compression ratio may make the engine easier to stall during quick brake stabs.

Check out some of the front fenders for smaller Japanese bikes like the 60 and 80 cc models. They are thinner. I think I modified one by trimming it or mounting it backwards. It looked pretty good and did not curl around and down as far as the original. Gave the bike a modern sleeker look.

Do not use the kick starter to try and free up a stuck piston, Vital hard to service parts can be damaged if too much force is used. Rocking the bike in gear or using rotating force back and forth on the flywheel or clutch may free it up, unless your dad seized it up before he parked it in the shed....

Just a reminder to anyone new to the Hodaka world that when you disable the pump you must replace the banjo bolt that held the oil line to the manifold with a short 6mm bolt. Make sure to put some sealant on the treads. This is a straight shot air leak that will lead to a piston seizure if not plugg...

14 tooth front and 36 rear with a 50 tooth overlay. 420 chain is readily available. A lot of guys upgrade to 428 chain setups for durability. Your gearing choices are a personal preference to your areas terrain.

You do not have a problem, you have an opportunity to find a solution. Everyone following your journey through clutchmania is learning something. Hanging in there with you to the end.

I cut a 6 by 6 piece of 400grit wet/dry sandpaper and tape it to a regular wooden pencil. It will look like a flag when done. Roll the sandpaper around the pencil and lube it with wd40. Slide and rotate the pencil as you move it back and forth through the piston. You do not usually need much pressur...

If its dying but starting back up its a lean condition not a rich one. Make sure you are using a good in line fuel filter or you could be cleaning the pilot jet every time you start it. Look for air leaks at manifold to carb and manifold to cylinder. Check that you didnt clog your pipe when you had ...

Great clutch info. The pictures really help tell the story. Perfect for all the beginners doing clutch assemblies from a basket full of misc. parts. Which is exactly the way many surviving Hodakas enter the world now days.

The "shop tips" section of the Hodakaparts.com website has an in depth exploration of shift cover adjustments.