I tried it on a Honda cub speedo. Exactly the same mechanism inside. The only part I had a short problem with is removing the top plate which is held in place by peeling. I tried to lever it off but tapping back the peeled bits with a chisel would have been better. Very simple otherwise, just watch ...

This post made me think about ‘that’ speedo post and as it’s 42 C here I thought I’d give it a go. Very simple to do when following the instructions. Pulled apart a Honda C90 speedo and it looks exactly the same internals as a Hodaka. There is no mystery to it. Hardest part is separating the bezel f...

On my Wombat, the threaded hole is to retain a small wire clip that the speedo cable runs through.

You could poke the bear by asking “which oil is best or which condenser and what location?”

Thanks Bevman. This is a fantastic post. I’ve always wondered how a speedo works. Now I’ll go and pull down my broken Honda speedo as a test of my new found knowledge.
Give yourself an elephant stamp.

Bert.

I have used O rings in the past but they have a use by date. They break up as if they’re affected by UV light after about 3 years. Easy enough to replace if they are used between the headlight shell and speedo but if they are used to seal the bezel, a bead of silicon may be a better option.

Victor, the idea is to hang the crank and con rod between your two steel bases on the press and rest the cylinder on top of the bases, then press on the piston (preferably via a block of wood) and hold the crank with one hand so it doesn’t drop on the floor.

Victor, as long as you unscrew the cylinder studs that should work. There’s an article in the latest “Classic Bike” British magazine showing exactly that process. The crank, rod cylinder was then placed in a hydraulic press to separate the piston/cylinder. I always like to use a bit of heat before s...

There’s one on eBay now.

If you’ve still got the spacer out, it’s a good time to file 2 small u shape recesses on one end. It helps when next time you knock the bearings out as a drift will fit in the gap.

It’s the one with Hodaka embossed on the magneto cover. The others have Ace on them.

There’s one on eBay now.

Hi
This wombat magneto and gear cover is on eBay. Does anyone know if it does fit the earlier bikes with neutral at the bottom?https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3819091481

I’ve bought second hand Starret and Moore&Wright instruments and also Mitutoyo. All good quality instruments and come with a test piece to check accuracy which you can adjust yourself. I’ve found that although they are second hand, the original owners, being machinists, are respectful of the ins...

When I made this modification I used a Honda C90 condenser. Cheap and readily available and works.

The marks look like there was never a clip in place and the pin has been marking the bore. Was there a clip somewhere in the crankcase? Do you know if circlips can be used instead of the original clips. I think they are less prone to come out as there’s no extended tang. My Wombat has similar rust s...

Thanks thrownchain
If I can get a similar era jap bike rim it would probably be chrome but it doesn’t have to be pristine, just not too much pitted rust.
Very interested in the cover.

Hi. I’ve just bought a non running Wombat #94 but it’s definitely rebuildable. I’m missing the magneto cover and the rear wheel is rusted through to the spokes. I’ve looked on eBay for the magneto cover and there are plenty of Ace covers but no 125s. Are they harder to find and is the shift pattern ...

I was looking into this a while ago and the threads were 1/8 bspp. That’s British Standard Pipe Parrallel which is good. The other pipe thread is a taper which is more difficult to find a die for. Don’t know whether the USA uses bspp but the dies are readily available in Oz and probably the UK. From...

With the air filter removed, open the throttle wide so the slide is up and then shove the screwdriver in the Venturi. Stops immediately. Not recommended for future use of the bike.

For anyone who was following my problems with a non disengaging clutch this is what I found. After dismantling the clutch about 8 times, filing the burrs off the fingers, checking for smooth operation, checking and rechecking shimming on the disc everything looked perfect - and it was. Turned out th...

Progress report - I've stripped the clutch a few more times and filed any burrs off the metal plates and placed the clutch assembly, pinion gears and clutch disc in a vice and found that the assembly will turn, leaving the pinion gears stationary - showing the clutch assembly is working. When I put ...

Ed and Brian,
Both thrust washers in place and checked torque specs. Bike isn’t registered so I’ll have to wait a while to ride it to check Ed’s theory. This is a great app when you’ve got British, Japanese, European bikes to work on.

I started with Autosol, a polishing compound for aliminium sidecovers then went to a paint cutting and polishing compound. Finer and finer does it.

Thought of that Pop, stripped the clutch, cleaned the plates and tried it dry - no oil, no result.