Looks good Max. I thought that a cable-actuated rear brake was on the menu? As BF notes, the relationship betw the brake rod and the swingarm pivot is critical. At any rate, the use of bellcranks and tight pull rods is a good setup. Large-scale R/C aircraft use heavy, snug components so you may be a...

"Spit-sizzle" : lick your fingertip or dip it in water and touch the hot metal briefly. You'll hear a "pssst" as the water boils off and you won't get burned. You're looking for "a couple hundred degrees". Aluminum soaks up heat very well, so use a butane torch.

Heat the hub, tap bearings out. The important thing is to heat the hub. Heat the hub to 200 deg-ish. This is "spit-sizzle" hot.

Might be relaxing to watch "The World's Fastest Indian" to realize how good we have it...

What is needed here is the Sagan corollary. Get out. Ride. Enjoy. Repeat.

He'll need to measure the current draw of his system. Best to use an old dial ammeter instead of a new digital ammeter. Since the points are opening and closing rapidly it might affect the fast digital readings. The dial meter would tend to average things out analogly. I don't know how this "as...

Good story. My first thought was to envision her as Jessica Rabbit, and Victor as Roger Rabbit.

Looks good !!

Remember, with any digital project, a circle is not a circle, but a many-sided polygon. The number of sides depends on the digital resolution of the CAD cutting table and the width of the plasma beam (the "kerf").

Piffle. This is what R&D is all about. The low beam is dim because it is 6 watts.

"The HF batteries are nicad" No shorty, they are Lithium.Ion, likely a variant of the A123 LiFePO4 cylindrical cell technology. 1300mAh @ 12v is not a barnburner, but it has proven enough to keep a light electric impact or a small drill running with intermittent shop use all summer and fall.

That is the idea, Max. See what your current draw is and size the battery accordingly. My Exh Gas Temp gauge is powered by a 750 mAh NiMh pack (next generation "nicad") with a calculated service life of 10hrs betw chargings; with intermittent use, the life is somewhat longer. The GPS is po...

We did close to the same thing. Mine was a 94.0 batt box with no tabs, the resistor was mounted on the right side of the "rectifier cavity" and the VR was mounted there, too.

I don't ride much at night, so I've not prioritized a good headlight. When I got the bike, both h'lite bulb filaments were burnt out. So I took the low-tech approach and did mods to install a 6v 1157 bulb. That is the brake/taillight bulb, 20w and 6w. Wimpish on high beam and barely there on low bea...

Current ongoing discussion of Roger's article, giving it a bump.

Current ongoing discussion of Roger's article, giving it a bump.

Thanks, Roger. I keep misplacing that link to your articles.

A lithium (Lipo or LiFe tech) is used on power tools and is a brilliant idea. I have a Harbor Freight cordless drill and a small (30-ish ft-lb) electric impact that are surprisinly powerful and have great battery life. Uses a compact 12v Lithium batt that costs under $30 as a spare. Extra chargers a...

That type of VR does not regulate the putput from the alternator but simply diverts or dumps the excess voltage to ground, creating heat. That aluminum plate Ed mentioned is the device's heat sink. The heat generated is not a lot and it does it's job by radiating heat to the air. Bolting the VR to a...

I mounted the later volt reg on my Wombat 94 on the lower right side of the battery box, near the site of the stock load-shedding resistor. And put a 1/8" aluminum plate under the VR to act as added heatshink. I'll look at the circuit and see if there is an electrical advantage to mounting the ...

Good diagram. Which other forum was it found on?

You're on the right track. Nevr Dull. Been using it for more years than I'd care to admit. Good stuff. The polishing process is a two-step: first, Polish, then Protect. Protecting the surface is needed on these weathered tanks because of tiny "rust pinholes" that occur and reoccur. I favor...

Agreed, it depends on the environmental humidty. Even with oily premix, in the humid South it is a good idea to use a tank liner. In the dry desert Southwest, rust is much less of a problem. RedKote and POR-15 tank liners are commonly used. My preferred tank liner is an epoxy-based liner by Caswell.

I'm looking at adding a mid-point support to go with the front-rear mounts. Thin sheet metal can take only so much bouncing-upon. And my bash plate has a slight twist so it's going to need some tweaking.

Knee OK?

The petcock threads on the chrome tanks: 1/8-28 BSP (British Standard Pipe threads). I've got a tap for cleaning out the threads in the tank bungs. BSP because it was postwar, this was a world-standard thread and some manuf in Japan prolly had a sackload of these petcocks ready for export. The seala...

Agreed. Those tabs look like they would work with a little blacksmithery. Looks like it might have been dropped on the tabs.