Nice!!

Wheels are a benchmark. Now you can sit on the bike and make vrooom vrooomm pretend-noises.

Ach, ya. Als the Chermins would say, "gutentight".

That "NP4-6" is prezactly the same size designation. The other numbers have to do with the not-used vent tube and the wire terminals. I've been using a Dekka AGM (absorbed glas matt, a type of sealed) on the Beemer and it's been flawless.

Looks good. The 6N-2A is abt 61x61x85 mm so it'll fit, tho you may have to lower the batt box floor a bit.

Terminals don't matter, the stock Hodie batts have wire leads and std bullet conns. No starter amperage, just charging and whatever the wimpish lites draw.

But not everybody does FB, especially old guys on old bikes.

And this notice came up on the Hodaka Fan Club, which is diff from The Hodaka Club page. I think...

The announcement from Terry Larsen: I am Happy to announce that my wife and I have purchased Hodaka-Parts Inc. We have some real big shoes to fill and we want to Thank the previous owners, Bill Cook and recently Dan Jennings for keeping the Hodaka Brand alive through HPI. Go to our website www.Hodak...

Terry Larson, of Two Bros Racing, has purchased Hodaka-Parts from Dan Jennings. From a FaceBook post: (Got it to paste) I am Happy to announce that my wife and I have purchased Hodaka-Parts Inc. We have some real big shoes to fill and we want to Thank the previous owners, Bill Cook and recently Dan ...

Do you have a stock# on that Home Depot battery?

And weren't the mufflers for the USA-market bikes fitted with ForestService spark arrestors? Possibly the Oz-market bikes were not and came with a diff muff.

The pipe does tuck in real nice, but the high point where the two cones meet caught my eye. Get wheels and tires on it'll be easy to check.

Good, things aligned well enough through tinkering. I have found tgat the best way to mount the early collar-type of cylinder attachment is to slightly snug the attachment collar and successively adjust the mid- and end-point frame mounts. The idea is to mount it as stress-free as possible. And of c...

First thought off the top o'th head is to shorten the levers on the brake pedal and the outer intermediate lever. That might give a little extra wiggle room. Are the lever ratios sacred? Have they beem thrashed to death or are they just the first guess? I'd be inclined to keep the "stock" ...

Good progress on the rear binder. You've got many of the initial design questions resolved, so backburner them, let them simmer, and see how they taste in a couple of weeks.

Great R&D session. One option might be to press another bearing with a larger ID into your flange mounts. A 1/4" shaft might be twisty, but 3/8" or 1/2" shaft would not be. Hit the online bearing catalog. You might find flange mounts with the same OD and bolt pattern with the larg...

I like delrin.

Enjoying your "TLAR" engineering sessions, continue on.
I think the torsional strength will not be a problem. This is a rear brake and you'll reach the limit where the wheel locks. It might even help the "feel" of the brake to have a bit of torsional springiness.

I guess this is making Hodaka progress-- I'm replacing my first battery after a couple of years of riding. This is a '72 Wombat 94 and I find that it takes a Yuasa 6N4-2A battery. The Hodaka part# is 909421 and should be the one used in most 90, 100 and 125cc early bikes. This Yuasa number is handy ...

"Honda shop... 5.5mm fuel line."

Don't think they've used that in years shorty. But a Whitworth hose in 28/64" would have a nominal metric ID of 5.78452mm and come in a translucent British Racing Green.

No. The petcocks and T-fitting take
6mm tubing. 3/16" tubing is 4.78mm.
Too small. 1/4" is correct.

That project is coming along very neatly, Max.

I've toyed with the idea of getting an inductive pickup strobe timing light and putting together a 12v external power pack so it can be used on a magneto system. No ambiguity on the reading.

Wonder how much current a timing lihjt draws?

Thoughts snd prayers; RIP.

This is how I routed the fuel hoses. From the 8mm fuel inlet on the new-stock carb to the sintered bronze fuel filter is a short piece of 5/16" Tygon (originally I used a piece of 1/4" Tygon heated and stretched over the fittings but i worried about failure). A relaxed arc of 1/4" Tyg...

I use a 1/4" Tygon tubing that I get at a local industrial supply. The carb fuel inlet on my current-stock Mikuni is larger than the usual 6mm taps used; I use 5/16" (8mm) Tygon. The plastic sintered-bronze filter fits either 6mm or 8mm tubing and is used between the carb inlet and the T-f...

"A reduction in billfold thickness"

He he.