I used the Wombat type. Whichever that was

That cylinder can still be saved. After you take the head off, the cylinder studs can be removed using what I call a stud remover (see photo). After that the cases can be slowly and carefully split, releasing the crank and cylinder as one. The bearings will be what holds the cases together at this p...

93B forks and 93A/94/94A/95/96(92C) forks were all the same part # 938751 938752. So you have the correct forks if you use the forks from the 94.

$0.02

Roger

What Dan said. The Super Rat (98) and Super Combat (97) also are the same as the Ace 90 with the dipstick located at the top of the side cover. Hodaka-Clutch-Cover-Engine-Case-ace-90-100.jpg HODAKA-AHRMA-Super-Rat-ACE100-90.jpg But the bolt patterns are the same for all the non-oil-injected engines....

Very likely

If the serial # doesn’t convince you, the larger frame gussets should, that its a 93B frame. These gussets were enhanced for the 93B only, for the chrome tank SR’s. The gussets I speak of are where the swing arm bushings are installed. Compare to an earlier SR to understand.

um.. "J" is the engine letter for the Combat Wombat beginning with J00001. "D" is the Frame letter beginning with D-14501. Combat Wombat's were manufactured in 1973. The only year.

According to your VIN tag, this is a Combat Wombat built in Feb 1973...

Roger

I'm just getting around to reading this thread and wanted to comment on the forks that mac mentioned. The forks on the right, in the photo above, are the infamous "butter forks" that came on the early Super Rat and Ace 100B. They were found to be defective because they would bend too easil...

Yes, silver leaf, red, then black. I didn’t know about the silver leaf but that’s exactly what is needed.

I've always wanted to find one of these for a fiberglass mold. I would rather modify one of my own reproductions than alter a new one. Having had success with my fiberglass seat pans, this would be a fun project.

The Ace 90 does not have the frame stamped. They only have the frame tag above the left rear shock mount. And yes, there is an easy way to remove the tag without damaging. The holes for the tiny studs are drilled all the way through. Use an ice pick or a dental pick to push them out from the back si...

stud welder.

just about anything you use that is effective will require a re-chrome, unless you paint.

$0.02

Roger

Talk to Terry at Hodaka-parts.com. If he doesn't have any, he has access to the molds.

The early Lucas-style tailight and bracket will be very difficult to find. It took me 4 years to find a NOS bracket. There is hope that someone, somewhere may have one. In the meantime, something like the photo below will work and will be close to original. lucas-style-taillight-led-license-plate-fr...

I can only give you conjecture since I was looking at this same issue awhile back. Keep in mind that the Ace 100 was an "improvement" to the Ace 90. I think that would explain the differing thrust washers as not an issue. The only difference between the two models is that the top end uses ...

;-) that's exactly what the Ace90 does. I thought maybe you had a copy or I would have attached it earlier. The only thing missing on this diagram is the key switch positions. I had it and posted it before but if I remember right: For each position: 0 (or off): IG => Earth) 1: Earth => Bat 2: Earth ...

If you have the large headlight bucket, the Ace 90 diagram is the correct diagram to use. The diagrams were the same for the early Ace 100's and the Ace 90's. It didn't change until the emergency switch was introduced on the smaller headlight bucket.

Roger

Keep in mind that your lights don't care of they are powered by AC or DC voltage. As I look at your diagram, it looks very similar to the Ace 90 diagram. with the exception of turn signals and a single position key switch. I think it would be easier to use the Ace 90 diagram, if it were me, and then...

You should have two sets of wires coming from the magneto: one set is a black and blue that goes to the HT coil under the tank and then blue, Black, Green, and yellow from the lighting coil to the key switch. The other set of four wires: the black is the ignition kill wire that attaches to the key s...

20mm Mikuni was standard.

Bruce at http://hodakapartsidaho.com/ is you best bet for Ace 90/100 stuff

In reference to Dale’s cross post, my friend Doug had his Wombat geared to 16/47 also. He was able to top 80 mph, (I took it to 73, before I chickened out). He spent quite a bit of time and effort determining the best gear ratios relative to torque and horses. I came away finding that there probably...

Dropping a 125cc engine into an Ace frame is loads of fun. This bike easily hits 60 Mph cruising speed. If only I had another Circle F...

I rescued a very early Super Rat Model 93, 3 or 4 years ago. It's serial number placed it as the 205th SR that rolled off the line. The engine number was correct for it's age and appropriately numbered to belong to the 205th SR. It's manufacture date was Aug 1969, if I remember right. It had a wide ...

Can clearly see the “B” on the frame tag if you zoom in. Since it does not have the reinforced gussets, it’s either a 93 or 93A. If the handlebars are correct, it is more likely a 93. Unfortunately, the engine is not a Super Rat engine. ALL Super Rat engines had the wide cylinder deck. This one clea...

I use this one: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sla6=5f. Fits nicely in the battery box with a 1 in. piece of thick black foam rubber to fill the gap. I am on my 2nd season on the same battery and I forgot to use the battery tender last winter. Battery still holds a great charge and the...