Yeah, that's what I will do Hydraulic. Seems like these cages are easily mixed up. Looks like the only dimension that might be different on some of these cages might be the thickness. Easy to mix up for sure. Once I get the right one from Paul I will post the thickness and part number for reference ...

I am going to order a new clutch cage and other parts from Paul but I am not quite sure what I'm working with. The bike is a 73 Dirt Squirt but I think the clutch is possibly off an ACE 100. Anyway, the clutch cage is different on the two. Until I get in touch with Paul, does anyone happen to have a...

OP here: I am starting to think my clutch assembly is from an ACE 100, because the friction plate thickness and spring lengths match what is shown for that engine in my Clymer manual, rather than what is shown for the Dirt Squirt. Maybe the whole clutch was changed out a long time ago. Also, while p...

Oh, and also you guys mentioned there were different throw out bearings, maybe three different ones. Any pictures of the differences in them, or where they were used?

Thanks Hydraulic. Maybe someone else has some parts they can measure so we could verify what's going on for sure. From a known Dirt Squirt would be real handy.

Hydraulic Jack in another thread go me to thinking about why I need so many shim washers under my throwout bearing. So I tore it back apart and measured everything. This is a 1973 Dirt Squirt 100. Here are all the parts and dimensions. I have nothing to compare them to so I assume they are correct. ...

Hey Hydraulic Jack, I don't want to hijack this thread so I started YET ANOTHER NEW CLUTCH thread. Seems like a rash of clutch issues lately. Please see my new thread called MORE CLUTCH QUESTIONS. Thanks, go_hercules.

I am talking about the shim spacers between the throw out bearing and the clutch face plate. Mine requires 0.100 worth there to achieve 3/32 play at the engine lever. I have the right number of friction discs. My friction discs are about 0.080 inches thick. Paul measured some NOS discs in his stock ...

To answer your question about the shims, there is about a 10:1 mechanical advantage from the clutch hand lever to the clutch disc movement. In other words, the clutch cable movement is about 1/2 inch. The total throw of the little dowel in the clutch cover is about 0.050. 1/2 inch, which is 0.500, d...

I have read a few posts where it was mentioned that the clutch inner thrust washer (the thick one next to the crank bearing) was grooved. The one on my Dirt Squirt is smooth on both sides. Which ones were grooved? And what did the groove look like?

Mike, that sounds like a good test using an indicator on the magneto. I think I will try that just out of curiosity.

Radial ball bearings can handle radial loads and small axial loads. A radial ball bearing has radial clearance built in to allow for thermal expansion and also to allow for change in dimension when squeezed into a bore or when the inner race is expanded onto a shaft. The axial clearance is usually a...

Hey Ed. In my Clymer manual it says that on an assembled crankshaft, the distance from outer crank flywheel surfaces should be 1.57 inches +/- 0.0008. That is a very tight tolerance which made me wonder how accurate the distance between installed crank bearings could be. Just curious. And like you s...

I am having trouble visualizing what supplies preload to the crank bearings. The crank bearings are deep groove ball bearings which need some amount of preload. But looking at the parts assembly drawings i see the left and right bearings in their shouldered holes. The right side has a thrust snap ri...

I tried going "old school" on my chain one time. I cleaned it in a pan of diesel fuel, hung it to dry, then soaked it in a pan of 30 weight motor oil like I used to do as a kid in the 60's. Talk about a royal mess. :oops: That stuff flung everywhere and all over my pants and shoes. Funny h...

I tried some Type F ATF today. The clutch drag is about the same, was hoping it would be less. The clutch did not have this much drag before I took it apart. I had it apart to check it while working on the throwout bearing. No clutch parts were changed. However, I did mix the friction disks and stee...

Another question just occurred to me that I meant to ask. How tight should the fiber clutch disks fit onto the center rotor gear? Mine slide on the rotor, but are a very snug, sliding fit. Should they fit the rotor looser, sort of like the steel plates fit the cage? If they are too snug, wondering i...

Hey Ed. Anything special I need to know before trying the ATF? Like what kind? I know there are about a dozen types of ATF nowadays.

After battling some clutch noise, I changed clutch oil and buttoned everything up. Well, to my surprise, the clutch started dragging a lot when in gear and clutch disengaged. Took the clutch back apart, everything okay. After some head scratching, I realized that the only thing it might be was that ...

Go_Hercules here. I posted the pictures above of the throwout bearing with the tiny little flaws in the raceways. Well, using a Dremel grinding stone in a drill press, I smoothed out the surface in the pocket of the disk. Then I chucked up the stem piece and using a small file I smoothed it out. Put...

The cable shown in the photo above is the original clutch cable that came on the bike, not a replacement. Even the photo in my old Clymer manual shows the little cable barrel sticking out like that. But of course Clymer gives no real explanation of where the 3/32 is measured from. I'm with you Ed, I...

I thought I would point something out that I discovered. A lot of the recommendations on adjusting the engine clutch lever for 3/32 inch call for completely removing the cable to make sure the lever has no load on it. Well, the barrel on the lower end of my cable (and I'm sure most others) sticks ou...

Thanks Matt. Pristine pinion bushing and pinion gear. Plates and disks all good. Springs good. What could be left? I figured this has to be it. Will let you know when I put it back together.

Good to know, thank you. I could not find the source of the rattling/growling noise in my clutch. So I took a closer look at the throwout bearing. I could push on it to load it and spin it. It feels fairly smooth. But I decided to take it apart. After about an hour I manged to get that tiny clip off...

One more question before I pull my hair out. How easily should the clutch hub slip through the clutch cage? If everything is in good shape without burrs, washboarding, etc., should it more or less slip on through? Mine appears to have no damage, but you have to sort of shimmy it back and forth to ge...