Hi folks, I was chugging along on my not-such-a-creampuff project, and came across a something new to me. The little window cover on this shifter is blank. Same dimensions as early ones with "Hodaka" on them, and same patent number, but most definitely blank. The patent number is identical...

$750 is nuts. I'd guess a couple hundred would be more on target. Try the auction process, it's always been good to me. Good luck. You also might check in with Marks Vintage Swapmeet. Lots of good guys there, including folks that transport full time and on the side. You can post a request hunting a ...

Professional motorcycle shippers are crazy high (at least for little project bikes). If you haven't already, try Uship. I've used A LOT of shippers through Uship, met some great folks, and if you are patient, you would not believe how cheap it can be to move a bike.
My 2 cents.

+1 Brian - that was a creepy first post/attempt to legitimize a link from "gears11" When I saw it, I thought of that quote: "You ever look at something so stupid, it makes you squint?" But it sparked some good conversation...especially for us still learning Hodaka history. And I ...

Wow, thanks everyone for all the good info! Dale, I've never noticed the accessory schematics - thanks for the good tip. And good to know that this is a cool part. Apparently, someone filled the top end with saltwater around 1981... (At least the bottom end is nice). This was a one owner bike with l...

Cool, thanks. This frame/engine numbers put it around summer of 1965. I've gone through some parts diagrams trying to find this style of silencer, but no dice. So maybe it was like Bob said, some period accessory part, or a short run of something that didn't make the parts diagrams. Doesn't really m...

Hello good people, Started on another crusty 90 today and noticed this one has a different sort of silencer. It's marked "Approved US Forest Service Hodaka Ace 90D Spark Arrestor" Instead of sitting flush in the pipe and having an internal crossbar, this one sticks out (with set screw in p...

That poor thing. Can't wait to see the "after" photos - looks on her way to an Extreme Makeover!
Have fun with the project and keep us posted on progress!
-Laurie

So cool and wow what nice bikes! Great looking Hodaka sign in the background too
Congratulations on the wins - and awesome of you to get those fine beasts out for people to enjoy - I bet they sparked a lot of memories and stories for folks!
Laurie

Update:
Finally finished the Indian: And on to the Ace...
-Laurie

Sometimes nice stuff brings top dollar

I don't know him personally, but spoke with him maybe a year or so ago about parts. Seemed like a nice guy, and the stuff sure looks good for the right person.

I'll bite. Yes, I've used Rustol. Good stuff, and yes you can re-use it. There's a thousand recipes and methods out there - vinegar, electrolysis, etc. I've grown to like Phosphoric Acid (cheap and easy to get at home improvement stores, can use straight or dilute). I would stay away from Muriatic a...

NICE breakdown Maxie!
Thanks for taking the time to share
-Laurie

No on the battery, see Ed's advice. Yes, it has points - gap at .012"-.014" - can be done without pulling the flywheel. If you need to pull the flywheel, get a proper puller (available via SH), or you'll be really sorry. Use a buzz box or cigarette paper to see if the points are opening at...

What Ed said last time still applies: ----- Postby Bullfrog » Wed Dec 03, 2014 5:30 pm Since the colors of the wires have been changed, you'll need to trace down exactly which wire is connected to what item. That being said, you can peek at the wiring diagram for the machine elsewhere on this very s...

I like Brasso too. For chrome, seems to me nothing beats Simichrome. Though I also use a lot of the Turtle Wax Chrome Polish, which works really, really well. Barkeeper's Friend does a nice job when dealing with a lot of surface rust. Never heard of FLITZ, now I've gotta try it. Good info! FWIW, I'v...

Simichrome.

Welcome aboard! Pretty straight-forward procedure. The axle is threaded into the left fork (don't just start banging!) you can use a stout screwdriver or something similar through the right side of the axle to unthread it. *Be sure to loosen the lower axle clamp on the fork leg first. If it's been a...

Seems to me like a better way to go (than the after market kit) is to upgrade those stock shocks (there are several reasonably priced ways to go, all of which would be an improvement). Just buy them a bit shorter than stock, and slide those forks up accordingly (which is required with that kit anywa...

Well I saw Ed's centerfold, and swelled up with pride - I know a Pabatco Legend!
Great spread and nice photos - it was like I was there! ...oh wait, I was
-Laurie

Hi Tom, agreed - it's a great pipe. I have it mounted on a Super Combat. I think as long as you have a good solid spring attachment from the stinger to the body of the pipe, and a good silencer mounting bracket (and springs), the stinger is good as is. I just gave mine a wiggle - very little play, n...

They are great. Few of my own reasons: 1. At the time, that was the only 03 set I had, so I put them on my Sportsman bike (Super Combat) for 2014. Now I have a couple of sets sitting around :) 2. I think the improved forks probably serves a heavier rider (and a more aggressive one for that matter) b...

Here are some photos that might help. Progression of the same bike over a couple of years Stock (except for reed set up) CWgraphic.jpg Race equipped (03 front end, plastic, borrowed air cover) IMG_3207.JPG And the trail bike it is today. Lights, Wombat tank (bigger capacity), rack, kept the hub but ...

Everything Brian said. Yes, determine what your goals are for the bike. If you want working lights, the stock coil should have a lighting coil, which will support lights. I've never been disappointed with the big improvement a PVL does for my bikes. PVL won't support lights, but an MZB will - I have...